On the Far Shore

Ferry to Muang Chomphet on the far shore from Luang Prabang.

Wat Long Khun as seen through a screen of Bourgainvillia.

Porch of Wat Long Khun

Wat Long Khun interior with murals.

Wat Long Khun with mural detail.

Detail from entrance to Wat Long Khun.

Walking meditation hallway for future Laotion kings at the Wat Long Khun.

Monks quarters at Wat Long Khun.

Novice monks at Wat Long Khun.

Tham Sakkalin is a cave containing some broken relics and is adjacent to Wat Longkhun.

Some 123 steps above the lane Wat Chomphet offers a rewarding view of Luang Prabang.

Wat Xieng Maen near the ferry.

On the lane back to the ferry.

Ferry back to Luang Prabang.

ON THE FAR SHORE of the Mekong River is Chomphet District, which can be reached by a vehicle ferry, or passenger boats. On a cloudy morning I left the hyper-active tourist scene of Luang Prabang for a quiet day, visiting a string of wats or monastery temples, connected by a lane that eventually turned to a dirt track. Of the three locations Wat Long Khun, the last stop, was probably the most interesting. Otherwise known as the Monastery of the Happy or Blessed Song, it is across the Mekong River from the temple district of Luang Prabang. First built in the 18th century it has played an important role for Laotian royalty. From early on Long Khun has been a retreat centre for the spiritual preparation of the king-designate, who would practice meditation and ceremonial bathing, prior to his coronation. With the communist revolution of 1975 the Laotian monarchy was dissolved and the monastery slowly fell into disrepair. Today monks live here so the grounds and buildings are at least maintained in a minimal sort of way. Great Saw Palmetto Palms and Bougainvillea add colour and texture to the grounds. As for the striking murals, depicting the life of Buddha, one can be thankful that they have not been garishly restored. Unfortunately the elements and some vandalism from the revolutionary period have taken its toll.

Other stops included the Wat Chomphet and Wat Xieng Maen. I took a little ferry back and was in town by late afternoon.