Heading for Downtown on Nguyen Thai Hoc Street by Hanoi Transit.
FOLLOWING the Vietnam Rail episode I arrived in Hanoi at 5:30 am. I was very happy to reach the Splendid Star Hotel, with a nice comfortable bed, a decent breakfast and even a computer in my room. To add to this the bells of St Joseph's Cathedral could even be heard above the narrow lanes and rooftops.
From my comfortable base camp it was off first to a gem mall, to return a huge tourmaline, for my friend Hans. It seems he had purchased a specimen that was glued to another piece of rock. The attached crystal looked like it came naturally with the matrix or bedrock, but upon being cleaned and examined more closely, the base had been obscured with plaster and then soiled, to make it look old. My friend, who is a collector of gem quality crystals, was dismayed by the swindle. As we had made a rendezvous previously in Vientiane, he had asked if I could do him a favour and return this item to the Hanoi store he had bought it from, It turned out to be a short but prickly drama. At first the gem dealer refused to return my friend's money even though Hans had received an e-mail from him, in which a full refund would be offered, as a last resort. When I held up my cell phone and suggested that we should phone Hans, who was in Thailand, he changed his mind. Within 10 minutes I got over 17,000,000 Vietnamese Dong, which I had to stash into my money belt, which made it ridiculously thick. The money was subsequently converted into Euros. Now I was carrying the equivalent of over $800 on me not including my own stash of cash.
After this initial drama it was time to see Hanoi. I walked into the heart of the city to begin with. Hoan Kiem which was also were my hotel was located, was a district full of atmospheric lanes and streets, waiting to be explored. I had seen only sunshine since January 25 till reaching here so the low grey cloud, occasional Scotch mist and much lower temperatures was an adjustment. Taking pictures brought with it new lighting challenges too. The streets of Hanoi were always full of mostly motor scooters and motorbikes, during the day, and on a scale like I have never seen before. Crossing the road meant taking a few steps at a time, and letting the drivers weave past, as one cautiously made progress to the far curb. Of course, with no evidence of traffic rules, one could take one's life in one's own hands and cross almost anywhere.
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