Traditional method for making palm spirits,
en route to Mt Popa
Traditional method for making palm oil,
en route to Mt Popa
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, is atop a volcanic plug
on the flank of Mt Popa
Temple monkeys begging on the 777 step ascent,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
View of village from Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Distant peak of Mount Popa at 1518 metres (4,981 ft), from
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
View Northwest to Bagan from Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
From the top of the stairs the descent begins,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Nat god with a Buddha like halo,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Nat gods with money offerings,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Me Wunna, the Nat Popa Medaw (Mother of Popa)
Shrine with donations and Miss Kitty,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Alcove with Buddha at Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Passage of time in the Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Attendant in a Nat Shrine,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Hands of an attendant in a Nat Shrine,
Popa Taung Kalat Monastery, Mt Popa
Part of the pantheon of 37 Nats, or spirits, Mt Popa
Assembly area in a Nat Temple, Mt Popa
Spiritual gesture on the windshield of our tourist van, Mt Popa
THE VAN DROVE SOUTHEAST, out of the dry Bagan Plains, and towards legendary Mount Popa. I was with 3 or 4 other travellers and on my first group tour of the trip. En route we stopped at a roadside shack. An ox moved slowly out in the yard, round and round, labouriously driving the gears of a simple press. Meanwhile a slow stream of palm oil trickled into a pot. Under the thatch leaf roof inside, was a modest variety of spirits for sale. which several of us sampled. It tasted vaguely like tequila but was not quite what i had in mind, in the middle of this hot morning. Before leaving, we admired the primitive but functional still by the back door.
The road ascended the basaltic flanks of Mt Popa, an ancient volcano more then 1500 metres (4,900 ft) high. We passed through the occasional village. Now the van was labouring up steep grades as the vegetation became denser and greener. The driver stopped by a dirt track so we could walk to a viewpoint. Soon we were gazing at something that seemed out of a fairytale. In the middle distance was Taung Kalat (pedestal hill) monastery, perched precariously atop a volcanic plug. Clinging to the hillsides were feathery trees and zigzagging upwards, a covered walk. This enchanting sight was also Myanmar's most holy mountain, but really a hill.
We were left in a busy village at the bottom of the pilgrim walk. Barefoot as usual, the climb began up flights of stairs that took us past rows of stalls, on the 777 step ascent. There were a few shrines too, near the beginning, populated with statues from the Nat pantheon of some 37 gods and goddesses. Carefully we made our way past troops of begging monkeys, whose poop we had to watch out for, on the tiled stairs. Gradually the route brought us around to the north flank—and we panted onwards. Finally we were on top of Taung Kalat at 737 metres (2,147 ft) and rewarded with captivating views. Apart from the profound sacredness of this hilltop, the crowded collection of tiled courtyards, shrines and gold stupas, way up here, were also treasure like. Despite a steady stream of visitors one was often quite alone, standing in front of an altar or staring out over the edge.
The road ascended the basaltic flanks of Mt Popa, an ancient volcano more then 1500 metres (4,900 ft) high. We passed through the occasional village. Now the van was labouring up steep grades as the vegetation became denser and greener. The driver stopped by a dirt track so we could walk to a viewpoint. Soon we were gazing at something that seemed out of a fairytale. In the middle distance was Taung Kalat (pedestal hill) monastery, perched precariously atop a volcanic plug. Clinging to the hillsides were feathery trees and zigzagging upwards, a covered walk. This enchanting sight was also Myanmar's most holy mountain, but really a hill.
We were left in a busy village at the bottom of the pilgrim walk. Barefoot as usual, the climb began up flights of stairs that took us past rows of stalls, on the 777 step ascent. There were a few shrines too, near the beginning, populated with statues from the Nat pantheon of some 37 gods and goddesses. Carefully we made our way past troops of begging monkeys, whose poop we had to watch out for, on the tiled stairs. Gradually the route brought us around to the north flank—and we panted onwards. Finally we were on top of Taung Kalat at 737 metres (2,147 ft) and rewarded with captivating views. Apart from the profound sacredness of this hilltop, the crowded collection of tiled courtyards, shrines and gold stupas, way up here, were also treasure like. Despite a steady stream of visitors one was often quite alone, standing in front of an altar or staring out over the edge.
Nowhere on this trip, had i seen the two belief systems, Buddhism and Nat worship, so intertwined like here. Buddhism was after all predated by Nat worship, so long ago. As in Cuba, where both Catholic saints and West African spirits are worshipped side by side, faith here was profoundly complex. Sometimes when two spiritual paths unify, as was the case here, it is labelled syncretism.
Forgive me if i mention yet again that the descent was mighty uncomfortable without my precious orthotics. Apart from that, i was thankful, even gratified, to have made it to Mount Popa. Also enjoyable were the company of the other tourists, who were all friendly and curious souls. I particularly enjoyed the company of a Mexican woman and a Malaysian man touring together. We agreed to meet for dinner that evening in Bagan, in a South Asian garden restaurant, and so we did.
Good all purpose resource:
Mount Popa - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Interesting background information on the legends and history of the place:
UNSpecial No 616
Shorter version on Burmese Spirit worship:
nat (Burmese religion) -- Encyclopedia Britannica
Longer version on Burmese Spirit worship:
Nat (spirit) - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
If the above does not suffice then an overview on Burmese religion:
Windows on Asia | Michigan State University
Video from a European visitor which provides some decent footage with views and shrines on top of the hill. He is also quite preoccupied about the fact that the money offerings don't get stolen, but then i won't go there, given my obsession with orthotics and other such touristy concerns. :)
Myanmar , Mount Popa - YouTube
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