Motorcycle taxis and Mandalay Hill

Video #1, on the back of a motorcycle taxi, (with the "purple haze" feature

accidentally switched on), in the Monk's Quarter of southwest Mandalay

Video #2, on the back of a motorcycle taxi (with complimentary

 swerving and beeping), driving through downtown Mandalay

Video #3, sunset from Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

This driver of this Chinese built Kenbo motorcycle, 

took me nearly to the top of Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Sutaungpyei Pagoda, Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Monks on the east-facing viewpoint, Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Evening light on the back of a standup sign with mirror tiles, 

Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Looking down the western slope of Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

 Sunset from Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

THE FIRST FULL DAY in Mandalay involved the use of the ubiquitous motorcycle taxis. After the morning ride to Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery, the second driver convinced me to hire him for the rest of the day. As lunchtime approached, he took me to an elegant garden restaurant where the tour groups came, and where he could earn a commission too. I was willing to go along with that as it worked out well for both of us. While the driver waited i ordered a tasty but pricey lunch, which was a pleasant change from the dining adventure of the night before. Following this midday meal, in the shade, i climbed awkwardly back onto the back of the bike. After the Mahamuni Pagoda and the Shwe In Bin Monastery, mentioned in the last post, the driver took me back to the Zegyo Hotel for a quick rest. 

In the late afternoon, Mandalay Hill was next. This was a place of extraordinary religious significance, even involving the very active support of a number of Burmese kings. It was also the site of fierce warfare during World War II. For most tourists, the evening view was the main attraction, which was generally enhanced by an extravagant sunset.

Given my 2 XL proportions, the tiny Chinese motorbike did the impossible. It got us up, nearly to the peak, at 240 metres (790 ft) above the city. I actually thought the engine would never make it – i really did – as it whined horribly on the steep ascents. Not far from the top the road ended in congestion. Motor cycles taxis, car taxis, chartered vans and buses crowded into a small parking area. Off came my shoes and socks according to temple regulations, followed by the inevitable climb to the summit, without my precious orthodics, i might add. Ahead of me were flights of mostly tiled stairs, lined by stands and stalls, with the call of the hawkers, before the summit itself. Sutaungpyei (literally means "wish-fulfilling") Pagoda finally appeared above the last steps. With relief i noticed a calm descend over me as my inner (and ugly) tourist diminished and the silent swearing and whining abated, somewhere in the recesses of my mind. This mighty ascent had taken all of 15 minutes!

Walked slowly around the terrace, where i could take in the views, cast in a delicate golden light. Up here on the peak, the temple surfaces glowed ever so softly. Monks, pilgrims and tourists moved about the columns and arches or gazed out contemplatively at the sunset. To the southwest was Mandalay, down on the plain, appearing dimly through the haze. Beyond the city, a bewitching strip of light glinted on the Ayeyarwady River. As the sun dropped behind a low chain of hills, the crowd of mostly tourists came to life. Once twilight was upon us, the mad dash for the buses and taxis began. 

Even though this is from 2008, and from a pro-government regime newspaper, it does give more background then any of the more recent links i could dig up:

Myanmar Times & Business Reviews

A good all round reference: 

Mandalay Hill - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Mahamuni Pagoda and Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

 Video #1- Approach lined with stalls to the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #2 - Caged birds on approach to the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #3 - The way into the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #4 - Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Video #5- Inside the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Shoe attendent at the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Goods for the pilgrim trade, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Moving diorama for the pilgrim trade, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pilgrims, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Courtyard and Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Main hall in the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Only men could approach this statue, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Statue of Airavata, a Hindu god, once stolen from Angor Wat, 

considered to have healing properties, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pilgrims touching statues, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pagoda view of Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Sunlight and shadows, Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

 Deck outside the pagoda, Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Washing area in Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Main altar in the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Electrical detail in the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

THE INFORMAL TEMPLE TOUR, on the back of a little motorcycle, continued into the hot afternoon. Soon i was dropped off near the Mahamuni Pagoda, the principle place of Buddhist worship, here in Mandalay. Located in the Southern part of the city, this gaudy collection of buildings is also known as Phayagi, meaning Great Pagoda. There were several long approaches to the temple complex, bordered almost the whole way by stalls. Apart from food and other practical pilgrim needs, there were a lot of religious trinkets too. Somewhat disturbing were the owls and other captive birds being sold. I could be wrong but i think the intent was to gain merit and improve karma by freeing a living thing from captivity. Further on was a place to turn in your shoes, which an attendent placed in a little cubby hole. Beyond that were open courtyards and then the central hall itself. Inside, pilgrims were gathered in front of of a large bronze Buddha, raised on a golden throne. Only men could approach the 3.8 metre (12.5 metre) high statue however. With the exception of the head, they were allowed to place gold leaf on the body of the statue, which was in places, up to several centimetres thick.

In another part of the grounds was a small building which contained statues of Khmer origin, pilfered originally from Angkor Wat. It was a surprise to see these ancient Hinduistic objects, of Khmer (Pre-Cambodian) origin, here in a Burmese setting. Because they were regarded as objects that could heal, parts of the figures were shiny in places, from so many pilgrims touching them. Those areas corresponded to where the visitors felt an affliction.

In Mandalay's Southwest corner was the Shwe In Bin Monastery. It too was another example of Burmese architecture that pulled together grace and beauty in a truly contemplative setting. To be honest, i had barely noticed it in my guidebook, but the motorcycle taxi driver knew better. Here i found myself walking into a compound, trying to dodge the hot open areas. As i walked under the trees it occurred to me that i was very fortunate to be here. The dark wood structure, intricately carved and soaked in atmosphere, was just a wonder to gaze at. Adding to the experience was my slightly childish glee, to happen upon such a beautiful place with hardly any other tourists in sight.

Shwe In Bin Monastery was commissioned by two well off Chinese jade merchants and opened in 1895. The building was elevated on thick upright log poles and so the surrounding deck of the main temple could be reached by massive approach stairs. The majesty of the place was enhanced by it's soaring roof lines and intricate carving. Beneath the eaves more artistry in wood, reflected in the altar pieces, wall panels and balustrades. Today, Shwe In Bin Monastery is home to some three dozen monks.

Mandalay arrival and Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Myanmar

Video #1 of view from Zegyo Hotel room, Mandalay

Video #2 of Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Mandalay

Video #3 of Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Mandalay

 Interior of Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Mandalay

Interior of Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery

Monks at Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Mandalay

Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery. Mandalay

Carved teak panels, Shwenandaw Kyaung monastery, Mandalay

IF MANDALAY WAS ANYTHING, it was not what i had imagined, but then there was precious little to go on. Rudyard Kipling's poem "Mandalay" wasn't much help, nor was the Lonely Planet guidebook, which seemed to  point towards a bewildering selection of monasteries, scattered far and wide. 

A midday flight from Yangon brought me to Myanmar's second largest city, 445 miles (716 km) by road to the North. I shared the long taxi drive into town with friendly travellers; a young Frenchman and a couple from Winnipeg. I later met the threesome at a noisy and convivial hangout for informal tourists. The Mann Restaurant had basic Chinese food and a party atmosphere which was pleasant enough, but the brown streak of a rat beneath my feet, a lot less so. The accommodation nearby, at the Zegyo Hotel, favoured by the Burmese business and government crowd, was comfortable. My room at the back faced out over the popular Zegyo Market and a mosque, providing a room with a view.

The next morning, serious sightseeing began on the back of a tiny motorcycle taxi. I told the driver to take me to Shwenandaw Kyaung or the Golden Palace Monastery. As we approached the distant township it became apparent that he had no idea where our destination was, but after a few wrong turns, and help from locals, we reached the gates

Burmese traditional architecture is remarkable, not only for its graceful aesthetics, but for it's apparent portability too. Shwenandaw Kyaung was no exception. It even included a ghost story. Originally, the building was a royal apartment for KIng Mindon, there, in 1878. As his successor kept sighting him now in spirit form, a very prudent decision was made. King Thibaw had the teak wood structure dismantled and moved from the old moated palace in central Mandalay, out to the Northwestern outskirts. By 1880 it's reincarnation was the centrepiece of a monastery. Now, this was really fortunate as all the remaining palace buildings, of wood construction, were completely destroyed during World War II.

There was was a steady trickle of visitors who passed over the creaky floor boards, while i was there. Sometimes i even got to enjoy the darkened interior alone, broken only by  patches of sunshine moved slowly across weathered grey surfaces. The panels, portals and a number of altars, were intricately carved and were in relatively good condition.

Zegyo Hotel in Mandalay
DIAMOND PALACE COMPANIES GROUP

Shwenandaw Monastery - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Markets, stalls and tea houses, Yangon

Video of a morning market off Merchant Road, Yangon

Video of sidewalk stalls on Maha Bandula Street, Yangon

Tasty pickled plums, sidewalk stand, Merchant Road, Yangon

 Aung San Su Kyi Tshirts (opposition leader), Bogyoke Aung San Market, Yangon

Bogyoke Aung San Market, Yangon

Antique (or fake) keys, Bogyoke Aung San Market, Yangon

 Sidewalk newsstand,  Maha Bandula Road, Yangon

In a side street market, Yangon

In a side street market, Yangon

In a side street market, Yangon

Side walk tea house, Yangon

Sidewalk tea shop setting, Yangon

THIS GRAB BAG of impressions combines markets, stalls and tea houses. As i mentioned in previous posts, Yangon's streets teemed with life. 

Bogyoke Aung San Market, was an endlessly interesting collection of little shops and stalls. Built in 1926, the sprawling bazaar was once known too as Scott's Market, at least to the  colonists. Architecturally, the old section of the market looked vaguely Anglo-oriental. As the market had since expanded, the 2,000 shops, are now housed under several roofs. 

Yangon had numerous smaller markets too, including many on side streets, which serviced their neighbourhoods. The hustle and bustle of selling and buying, was simply a way of life for local people, but also a captivating sight for this traveller.

Sidewalk tea shops, which i dearly enjoyed, are an almost anecdotal addition in this post. If anything about Yangon could be described as soulful and welcoming, it was these little businesses. For local people they offered an affordable place to read the paper or meet with others.

Link to the Bogyoke Aung San Market (Central Market):

Bogyoke Market - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

A quirky but useful guide, for visitors, to tea shop culture in Yangon:

How to get tea like a local in Myanmar | On Our Own Path

Engaging read from another blog on a Yangon food market:

Visiting a Food Market in Yangon, Myanmar - agoda travel blog - Insiders Speak Out : You Talk Back

A little colonial architecture in Yangon

Video of the Islam Building, combining Oriental design with a whiff of Art Deco, 

from 1939, Yangon

The former Ministry of Railways dates back to 1877, Yangon

The Secretariat, from the late 19th Century,

was once the seat of British imperial power, Yangon

The restored Strand Hotel from 1901, was restored in the 1990s, Yangon

General Post Office, Yangon

Main staircase, General Post Office, Yangon

Sealing mail, General Post Office, Yangon

UNDER THE BRITISH, their Burmese colony was heavily exploited, and with the economic development, Rangoon flourished. After independence, decades of dictatorship and economic stagnation left the city frozen partially in time. Many buildings from the colonial era survived, albeit in an often run-down state. The Main General Post Office however, with its striking moorish arches, is a promising example of a colonial building still in active use.

Given the present climate of liberalization, modern Yangon is undergoing a boom, with construction accelerating around the city centre. Major property development and next to no heritage protection, places the future of colonial era buildings in great danger.

On the side streets, Yangon

Video #1, In a family home, Yangon

Video #2, nuns collecting alms, Yangon

Video #3, Betel nut stall, Yangon

Weathered sign, side street, Yangon

Side street, Yangon

Nuns gathering alms, Yangon

Building front with washing, side street, Yangon

Service with typewriters, side street, Yangon

Magic hour lighting, Yangon

Outside a police station, near the riverfront, Yangon

FROM THE FIRST HOURS, Yangon revealed itself as a unique and compelling place to visit. Apart from a number of obvious sightseeing destinations, it was the streets, teeming with life, that were such a powerful draw. 

The first video also reflects a wonderful encounter i had, only 5 or 6 hours after arriving in Myanmar. While walking down 29th street, i wandered into a tiny, dimly lit shop, in search of a cold beer. One of the customers, who spoke some English, asked if he could help. When i told him, he took me to the end of the block and there was a sort of beer garden, on the sidewalk and across a busy street. The gentleman declined however to share a tall bottle of cold Myanmar brand with me but invited me instead to come to his home. While i emptied the bottle he called his wife on a cellphone. Soon we retraced our steps up the dimly lit and narrow street to the shop and nearby was his home – up a steep staircase that led to a colonial era apartment. His wife and six year old daughter were waiting upstairs, in an immaculately clean living room That was how i met Kyat Baha Dur and his family. While there he played a few songs on his cellphone and soon the whole family was dancing. I couldn't believe the warmth and spontaneity of the occasion, one of the highlights of the whole six week, three-country trip. 

It turned out the family belonged to the minority Hindu worshipping community. In fact the father was a school teacher who taught Hindi in a private school. The family's forefathers were originally Nepali, i was told, and must have arrived here many generations ago, when this part of the world belonged to British India. After my visit, the host put me in a friend's taxi and soon i was back at the Peaceland Hotel, safe and sound in slumberland, likely before 10 pm too.

Burmese Indians - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The second video clip reflected a typical sight on the streets of Myanmar – nuns collecting alms – in neighbouring countries i only saw monks doing this. 

dhamma

The final video clip shows a betel nut stall. Apparently betel nut leaf is consumed by 40% of men and 20% of woman, according to a Burmese government survey. I saw "Kun-ya" sold everywhere in Yangon, especially on street corners.

Paan - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Yangon - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia