The horse cart tour of Bagan continues

Approaching Shwesandow Pagoda, Bagan

Sunset viewing from Shwesandow Pagoda, Bagan

Sunset viewing from Shwesandow Pagoda, Bagan

Approach to Ananda Temple, Bagan

Approach to Ananda Temple, Bagan

Approach to Ananda Temple, Bagan

 

North facing Buddha at Ananda Temple, Bagan

 Souvenir dealer at Shwesandow, Bagan

Evening view to the east at Shwesandow, Bagan

Sunset at Shwesandow, Bagan

Sunset at Shwesandow, Bagan

In the home of Win's parents, Nyaung-U

This follows the post on Nyaung U and Old Bagan. The tour is spread over two posts, this being the second. In other words, it took three posts to cover this full day of touring.

THE TOUR continued into the middle of the afternoon. Now we approached the Ananda Temple. From under the horse cart canopy, it took shape through the trees, as jerky patches of white and gold. The sight of the fabled pagoda brought me straight out of a sleepy stupor. Off came the shoes and socks, at the entrance, followed by a bare foot approach down a long tunnel like passage. A feeling of expectancy began to build, as one passed the trinket stalls and minor shrines, before crossing a small court and into a cavernous dark chamber. One stood there first in awe before that gave to a feeling of reflection. A magnificently large Buddha statue, stood there gazing off into "Nibbana" or nothingness. It one one of four monumental temple statues that faced the cardinal points of the compass. 

The Ananda Phato is one of Bagan's most revered temples and was completed in 1105, placing it an the end of the early Bagan era. The design was considered a fusion of the local Mon with Indian architectural styles. According to a legend, King Kyanzittha promptly had the 8 monk architects killed, upon it's completion. It was said that he did not want Ananda Phato copied. If this was in fact true, some basic tenets of Buddhism might have been missed along the way. Apart from this unproven bit of information, King Kyanzitta was considered one of the most important monarchs in Burmese history and this temple one of Bagan's best.

Evening was now approaching and Win gave commands to the horse which pulled the cart even more briskly along. Soon we left a broad boulevard and approached the Shwesandaw Pagoda, over a sandy track. The stupa like pagoda appeared, amongst several others, on the plain ahead. It was one of two sites, assigned for sunset viewing to the foreigner visitors. I think that the segregation policy was acceptable. Noisy travellers like us would have added nothing to the viewing experience for any Burmese pilgrims or visitors. Based on these last few days of touring, one could see that sunrise and sunset watching, was a very important custom and a bit of a business too, in this part of the world.

In darkness we continued to a simple restaurant in Nyaung-U. I persuaded Win to join me for supper and a beer, which he reluctantly did. In the end no harm came of the eroding of our business/client relationship. He shared some of my supper and we enjoyed a few tall bottles of Myanmar brand beer. Quite out of the blue, i got an invited to come with him to his parents home, and so ended this wonderfully packed day of touring the sights of Bagan.

In closing it should be mentioned that Bagan was once the capital city of the first Myanma Kingdom and it covered an area of 23 x 8 km (14 x 5 miles). More then 2,500 Buddhist temples, stupas, monasteries, etc are scattered over the plain and were built from the 10th to 14th centuries. 

A Wikipedia quote of the international reaction to the military regime's woeful restoration program of Bagan:
Bagan - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

"Many of these damaged pagodas underwent restorations in the 1990s by the military government, which sought to make Bagan an international tourist destination. However, the restoration efforts instead drew widespread condemnation from art historians and preservationists worldwide. Critics are aghast that the restorations paid little attention to original architectural styles, and used modern materials, and that the government has also established a golf course, a paved highway, and built a 61-meter (200-foot) watchtower. Although the government believed that the ancient capital's hundreds of (unrestored) temples and large corpus of stone inscriptions were more than sufficient to win the designation of UNESCO World Heritage Site, the city has not been so designated, allegedly mainly on account of the restorations."

Please sign the petition to help make Bagan a UNESCO World Heritage site:
Petition | UNESCO: Award Bagan, Myanmar with the UNESCO World Heritage Center (WHC) Status | Change.org

Link to the magnificent Ananda Phato Temple:

Bagan : Ananda Temple, Myanmar(Burma)

Link to the Ananda Phato Temple:
Bagan - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Link to the Shwesandaw Pagoda, used for sunset viewing:
Bagan : Shwesandaw Pagoda, Myanmar(Burma)

Link to the Shwesandaw Pagoda, used for sunset viewing:
Shwe Sandaw Pagoda

By horse cart through Bagan

Win shoeing his horse Shwe at his home, Nyaung-U

Win giving Shwe commands as we approach Swezigon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

With Win and his horse Shwe, Old Bagan

Lunch stop, Old Bagan

Map showing Bagan, Myanmar

Shwe gets new shoes at Win's house, Nyaung-U

Win with his wife and child, Nyaung-U

Shwegizon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

Shwegizon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

Win was my horse cart driver on this day, Old Bagan

 Delicious river shrimp, Old Bagan

Carpenters using only hand tools, Old Began

Ancient but restored shrine, back of a furniture workshop, Old Bagan

 Teahouse with horse cart driver Win (left), Old Bagan

Haystacks and stupa, Old Bagan

Sharing the shade, Old Bagan

Back lane scene, Old Bagan

Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

Rosettes and peacocks are dominant themes in temple carving

Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

THE HORSE CART tour had been arranged by the hotel. Following breakfast, a young man named Win and his horse were waiting in the shade, before we got out on the highway. As we clip-clopped along the pavement, he asked if he could stop at his home, as the horseshoes had to be changed. Of course it was OK. The house was on the outskirts of Nyaung-U and while he attended to his horse i was given permission to go inside his home. It was a classic Burmese structure on high posts. The home was designed for the maximum possible ventilation. The rattan walls had glass free windows too. I met his wife and baby too, who instantly began crying at the sight of me, but the crisis gradually passed. Soon the horse shoes were changed and we proceeded through Nyaung-U. 

The first stop was the Shwezigon Pagoda, which was over a 1,000 years old. It had undoubtedly changed a great deal since then. The long passage, with sellers and stands, confirmed that this place of worship was also a hotspot for pilgrims and tourists. There was much to see in the buildings around the golden stupa itself.

We followed the main road out of town and through flat and dusty fields. It was a journey back in time given the largest collection Buddhist pagodas, stupas and temples anywhere. We arrived in Old Bagan were i was happy to soak up the atmosphere of the community, perhaps avoiding too many temples and escaping some of the fierce heat of midday. Serious sightseeing would have to wait later in the day. After viewing the Ayeyarwady, below the town we returned to the busy main street where i had a classic Burmese meal under the trees and next to a busy furniture workshop. Following lunch, the cart tour continued to Myoe Daung. It was another jewel box of a temple, in darkened wood and from the 19th Century. This was also a monastery, or rather the location of two monasteries, situated under huge shade trees. There were only a handful of visitors here. In the middle of the afternoon, we returned to the main street and a visit to a friendly tea house.

Bagan : Shwezigon Pagoda, Myanmar(Burma)

Bagan - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Bagan travel guide - Wikitravel

Bagan : Myoe Daung Monastery, Myanmar(Burma)

Bagan : Ananda Temple, Myanmar(Burma)

An Ayeyarwady River journey

Video # 1 - Leaving Mandalay, Ayeyarwady River

Video # 2 - Fog and shallows, Ayeyarwady River

Video # 3- Passing by the Sagaing Hills, Ayeyarwady River

Video # 4 - Inya Bridge, Ayeyarwady River

Video # 5 - In the engine room, Ayeyarwady River

Video # 6 - depth sounding with poles, Ayeyarwady River

Video #6 - On the bridge, Ayeyarwady River

 Leaving Mandalay at dawn, Ayeyarwady River

 Yadanabon Bridge by Sagaing, Ayeyarwady Rliver

 On the bridge of the "Shwe Kein-Nyi," Ayeyarwady River

 On the bridge of the "Shwe Kein-Nyi," Ayeyarwady River

A working boat on the Ayeyarwady River

Passing under the Pakokku Bridge, Ayeyarwady River

Stopping to let off a crew member, Ayeyarwady River

IN THE HALF LIGHT of dawn, the tourists clambered aboard the vessel. By 7 am the ship's whistle blew as crew members began undoing the mooring ropes. Now the boat began shuddering as it began to drift away from the floating jetty. The diesels roared to life and the "Shwe Kein-Nyi" curved out into midstream. We were on the Ayeyarwady (Irrawaddy) River and Nyaung U, our destination near legendary Bagan, ten hours downstream. Soon, Mandalay slipped away in the wake as the sun rose above the tree-lined shore. The day was off to an enchanting start. 

Downstream, we slowed to a crawl, as we entered a thin patch of fog and skirted shallow water. But then the wind blew up and the mist disappeared – there was Sagaing in golden sunshine as we crossed the channel. The ship's whistle blew again, echoing off the stupa strewn hillsides. We passed under the two bridges between Sagaing and Iwa as the shores flattened out.

From time to time the ship stopped by a stretch of riverbank or a small town. Passengers or crew members got on or off. Occasionally there were less expected delays as there was always the danger of grounding. Up at the bow two crew members would use long bamboo poles, to sound the depths, checking for hidden sandbars. The rainy season had passed months ago and so the Ayeyarwady was becoming dangerously low.

In the late afternoon the boat steamed under the long Pakokku bridge and by dusk we were moored at Nyaung U. A noisy crowd was waiting above  the mud riverbank. There was my taxi too. Thanks to a reservation, i had a basic hotel room to look forward to, out near the airport. 

Irrawaddy River - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

http://www.asterism.info/photos/bagan_12/

Amarapura, Sagaing and Inwa

Video #1 - Palm leaf manuscripts, Babaya Kuang, Amarapura

Video #2 - Silk weaving workshop, Amarapura

Video #3 - Silk weaving workshop, Amarapura


Video #4 - Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda, Sagaing Hills

Video #5 - Crossing the colonial era Inwa Bridge, Sagaing to Inwa

Video #6 - Ferry crossing at Inwa

Video #7 - Horse cart through Inwa

Palm leaf manuscripts, Babaya Kuang, Amarapura

 Silk weaving workshop, Amarapura

Silk weaving workshop, Amarapura

Interior view, U Min Thonze, Sagaing Hills

In the Sagaing Hills

Overlooking pagoda strewn hills, Ayeyarwady River,

Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda, Sagaing

Cat in Inwa

Big man in a little cart, Inwa

The ruined monastery of Maha Muangye Bonzon, Inwa

Shadow play at Babaya Kuang Monastery, Inwa

 Teaching corner for village children at Babaya Kuang Monastery, Inwa

Schoolwork, Babaya Kuang Monastery, Inwa

Abandoned farm manor, Inwa

Abandoned farm manor, Inwa

Late afternoon light, Inwa

Earthquake damaged palace tower, Inwa

This follows the post on the U Bein Bridge. The tour is spread over two posts, this being the second.
In other words, it took two posts to cover this full day of touring.

FOLLOWING BREAKFAST the tour returned to Amarapura At first glance, Bagaya Kyaung Monastery, built in 1996, was quite forgettable looking. I wondered why we were even here. Then the driver asked me to follow him down some steps, which led to a door to the  basement, which was unlocked for us. What i did not know was that the Bagaya Kyaung was a museum too, notable for some 5,000 pe-sa or palm-leaf manuscripts. The collection was in Pali, a language from the Indian subcontinent, also identified with Theravada Buddhism here in Myanmar. Then driver kindly aimed the beam from a bulky flashlight, so i could use my camera and iPad video feature too. Some over of the manuscripts were over 400 years old. 

We continued to the Pahtodawgyi Pagoda which i had seen earlier, but from far, far away and across Taungthaman Lake. In the morning sun the 56 metres (185 ft) white dome was almost blindingly bright. Here on the grounds, we had the pagoda almost to ourselves. Construction on it was completed in 1824 and under the rule of King Bagyidaw. Amarapura would be the royal capital for most of the period from 1783 to 1857. Quarrelling between royal brothers and Buddhist prophecies resulted however in the palace buildings being dismantled, moved and reassembled in Mandalay. Much of the wood, left over from the move, went into the construction of the U Bein bridge.

Droves of tourists appeared next when we arrived at a silk weaving workshop. Some of the output were longyi, a sarong like Burmese garment, worn by both men and women. In this case the highly decorative textiles were for women (men wore darker solid colours or neutral looking plaids). I noticed young teenage girls working on the looms. Amazingly, the visitors were free to wander in the din among the noisy machines. Across the narrow road was Shwe Sin Tai Silk Wares. In the store i picked up some gifts. Some of the silk scarfs were bold colour combinations and striking patterns were gorgeously beautiful.

Late in the morning we drove across the modern Yadanabon Bridge, designed by a Chinese engineers, that crossed the Ayeyarwady. Ahead where the stupa dotted chain of hills, between the river and flat plains. The U Min Thonze included a gallery of Buddha statues and fanciful tile work, layed out in a long shallow curve. On another hill we stopped at Soon U Ponya Shin Pagoda, which included a large Buddha, rabbit collection boxes made of bronze, acres of bright tile work and an impressive vista over the Ayeyarwady River.

We recrossed the Ayeyarwady River in the early afternoon, this time on the Inwa Bridge, built by the British in 1934. During the war two spans had been blown up to slow down the Japanese advance. Inwa was another old capital that lay beyond a tributary. The driver waited for me while i had lunch and boarded a little ferry. On the far shore, the sightseeing continued by horse cart. Maha Aungmye Bonzan, now a brick and stucco ruin, was next. There was little left of this royal monastery, dating back to 1822. Here were just a few remains from the Ava era, a significant period in Burmese history. This was followed by a wooden monastery, surrounded by trees and rice paddies. Built in 1834 the teak building was graceful, dark and hauntingly beautiful. It even contained a tiny classroom area. Finally the horse cart driver showed me Nanmyin. Near the road was a 27 metres (90 ft) tower listing dramatically to one side and damaged in an 1838 earthquake. That was all that remained of the 19th Century palace. The circle tour of Inwa, by horse cart ended back at the riverbank, where i caught a ferry and rejoined the driver.

Some resources:

Amarapura - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Sagaing - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Inwa - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

U Bein Bridge, Amarapura, Myanmar

Video #1 - Sunrise on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

Video #2 - Early morning on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

Video #3 - Sunset on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

 Sunrise on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

 Schoolboys at sunrise on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

 Morning on the U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

Fishing boats in the channel, U Bein Bridge, Amarapura

U Bein Bridge at sunset, Amarapura

U Bein Bridge at sunset, Amarapura

IT WAS STILL DARK, when i stumbled down the stairs at the Zegyo Hotel. Following a day on motorcycle taxis, the driver waiting for me on the street in his old white Toyota Corolla, felt, was a welcoming start. Today's program would include the ancient capitals of Amarapura and Ava (Inla) as well as the pagoda strewn Sagaing Hills. We would not be going too far out of Mandalay and it would be along a route so very popular with many tourists. That said, the U Bein bridge would be the first stop, before i came back for breakfast.

As night ended, we drove towards Taungthaman Lake. Our destination was the start of the U Bein Bridge, 11 kilometres south of Mandalay. Here in the sprawling township of Amarapura, the driver waited by near the shore in an empty parking area. Behind the beach was an untidy fringe of closed restaurants. The legendary foot bridge of salvaged teak wood from nearby palaces, was made in the 19th Century. Along the 1.2 km stretch, market woman with produce approached, as well as groups of monks, and a sprinkling of school children. Apart from the odd tourist, left behind near the buildings, i was on my own demographically speaking.  Beneath the bridge, fields gave way to a wide channel before i could see the ground below again. On the walk, the loud clatter of feet on loose planks, dominated the soundscape. Soon enough i was in Taungthaman Village. On my return the calls and quacks of crows and ducks swelled as the sun rose in the  pastel tinged sky. Fisherman cast nets from little slender boats, out in the channel, and the foot traffic increased too as the beach drew closer. Once back at the car, i returned to the hotel for breakfast, before resuming the tour. 

During the day the tour continued to other places mentioned at the beginning of this post. Late in the afternoon we were back at the U Bein bridge. It was the driver's suggestion to return and not me being obsessive, this time. There was an underlying theme to the double visit. Dawn's first light turned everything to magic, in this sweeping vista of water and low lands, so when evening came around, another sublime process unfolded. My viewing angle was different and the light was now out of the west. It played across water and fields turning the bridge and the people on it, into a silhouette like diorama. Compared to the early morning visit, there were now lots of tourists, and chatter filled the evening air. A flotilla of them were in boats out on the water too. None of this took away too much from the dramatically beautiful sunset.

A beautiful four minute video from a someone on the internet:
Life around U Bein bridge - YouTube