Friday 15 March 2013

Ko Kret Island north of Bangkok



Video aboard a long-tail boat with a stern view – river taxi to Ko Kret

Video aboard a long-tail boat with a bow view – river taxi to Ko Kret

King Bhumibol Adulyadej looks down from a calendar 
in the eating area of a pottery studio, Ko Kret

 Couple from Sweden with her brother and younger sister, who i came 
on the river taxi with, Ko Kret

An artisan creates a small clay sculpture, Ko Kret

Mother and toddler, Ko Kret

A shop owner resting amongst her textile wares, Ko Kret

The famous island pottery, especially the unglazed pieces in Mon style, Ko Kret

 
clothing pins with wall detail, Ko Kret

Elaborately fired and glazed pottery sign, Ko Kret

Plastic twine on a wooden fence, Ko Kret

Automobile engine mounted on the back of our long-tale boat (and taxi),
the transportation which awaited us at the end of our walk, Ko Kret


IT WAS BEWILDERING. I was trying to find the right boat on the Chao Phraya River. All this was fuelled by my language problems, no to mention a little grumpiness and some impatience too. It was after all hot and i had got off to a slow start. That left only myself to blame. Here in Bangkok, i went from one river landing to the other – they were luckily all within walking distance of each other. Finally i asked the right person and was suddenly at the right place. My destination was Ko Kret, a peaceful island 20 kilometres upstream. In a short time i was on a Chao Phraya "green flag" express boat roaring north out of the city. The Bangkok riverfront was totally dramatic against a foreground of choppy waves and heavy boat traffic. In morning sunshine everything seemed to gleam; the high rises, decorative palaces and the even more decorative temples.

Soon the skyline changed. Once we passed some factories and huge government ministry buildings, the mood gave way to rural scenes, above the river bank. The last stop was at the town of Pak Kret. There i started talking with a family group, on the pier, who were also interested in getting to Ko Kret. A friendly couple from Göteborg, a Thai woman and her Swedish husband, who were a huge help to me. She was also accompanied by her brother and a younger sister. A long-tailed taxi boat was moored nearby so the woman negotiated a price for all of us, with the driver. 

On our way to Ko Kret Island, we tied up for lunch at a shaded landing. There were few customers here, at this chain of small restaurants. We could look out at the Chao Phraya or be pestered by a friendly, or rather hungry cat. A cool cross draft under the long roof and simple but delicious food made for a very an enjoyable meal break. I had Pad Thai and the others shared some of their chicken satays with me. Ko Kret was next. After leaving our taxi, the driver motored off to meet us later at a pick up point. We passengers followed a mostly covered walkway, lined by stalls and small shops. Here and there we stopped for a snack, to have an excellent coffee or try some ice cream. Not to be missed were pottery studios, were a a large kiln was loaded and midway through a firing. After a kilometre of gawking and mostly window shopping, our water taxi was waiting for us at another point, so we could return to Pak Kret. Once again, here we were racing along the Chao Phraya, passing by the a shoreline of dense vegetation, towering palm trees, temples and tiny villages. In a few hours i would be back in the frenetic dissonance of Bangkok.

Ko Kret was created in 1722 when a canal was dug to bypass a big bend in the Chao Phraya. The island is roughly 2 by 2 kilometres and sustains more then a half dozen villages. Ko Kret is known for its Mon style pottery. Weekdays are the time to go when the place is largely deserted of tourists. – the weekend are another story.

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