Sunday 7 April 2013

Mahamuni Pagoda and Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay


 Video #1- Approach lined with stalls to the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #2 - Caged birds on approach to the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #3 - The way into the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Video #4 - Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Video #5- Inside the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Shoe attendent at the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Goods for the pilgrim trade, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Moving diorama for the pilgrim trade, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pilgrims, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Courtyard and Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Main hall in the Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Only men could approach this statue, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Statue of Airavata, a Hindu god, once stolen from Angor Wat, 
considered to have healing properties, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pilgrims touching statues, Mahamuni Pagoda, Mandalay

Pagoda view of Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Sunlight and shadows, Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

 Deck outside the pagoda, Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Washing area in Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Main altar in the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

Electrical detail in the Shwe In Bin Monastery, Mandalay

THE INFORMAL TEMPLE TOUR, on the back of a little motorcycle, continued into the hot afternoon. Soon i was dropped off near the Mahamuni Pagoda, the principle place of Buddhist worship, here in Mandalay. Located in the Southern part of the city, this gaudy collection of buildings is also known as Phayagi, meaning Great Pagoda. There were several long approaches to the temple complex, bordered almost the whole way by stalls. Apart from food and other practical pilgrim needs, there were a lot of religious trinkets too. Somewhat disturbing were the owls and other captive birds being sold. I could be wrong but i think the intent was to gain merit and improve karma by freeing a living thing from captivity. Further on was a place to turn in your shoes, which an attendent placed in a little cubby hole. Beyond that were open courtyards and then the central hall itself. Inside, pilgrims were gathered in front of of a large bronze Buddha, raised on a golden throne. Only men could approach the 3.8 metre (12.5 metre) high statue however. With the exception of the head, they were allowed to place gold leaf on the body of the statue, which was in places, up to several centimetres thick.

In another part of the grounds was a small building which contained statues of Khmer origin, pilfered originally from Angkor Wat. It was a surprise to see these ancient Hinduistic objects, of Khmer (Pre-Cambodian) origin, here in a Burmese setting. Because they were regarded as objects that could heal, parts of the figures were shiny in places, from so many pilgrims touching them. Those areas corresponded to where the visitors felt an affliction.
In Mandalay's Southwest corner was the Shwe In Bin Monastery. It too was another example of Burmese architecture that pulled together grace and beauty in a truly contemplative setting. To be honest, i had barely noticed it in my guidebook, but the motorcycle taxi driver knew better. Here i found myself walking into a compound, trying to dodge the hot open areas. As i walked under the trees it occurred to me that i was very fortunate to be here. The dark wood structure, intricately carved and soaked in atmosphere, was just a wonder to gaze at. Adding to the experience was my slightly childish glee, to happen upon such a beautiful place with hardly any other tourists in sight.
Shwe In Bin Monastery was commissioned by two well off Chinese jade merchants and opened in 1895. The building was elevated on thick upright log poles and so the surrounding deck of the main temple could be reached by massive approach stairs. The majesty of the place was enhanced by it's soaring roof lines and intricate carving. Beneath the eaves more artistry in wood, reflected in the altar pieces, wall panels and balustrades. Today, Shwe In Bin Monastery is home to some three dozen monks.

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