Saturday 13 April 2013

By horse cart through Bagan


Win shoeing his horse Shwe at his home, Nyaung-U

Win giving Shwe commands as we approach Swezigon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

With Win and his horse Shwe, Old Bagan

Lunch stop, Old Bagan


Map showing Bagan, Myanmar


Shwe gets new shoes at Win's house, Nyaung-U


Win with his wife and child, Nyaung-U

Shwegizon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

Shwegizon Pagoda, Nyaung-U

Win was my horse cart driver on this day, Old Bagan

 Delicious river shrimp, Old Bagan

Carpenters using only hand tools, Old Began

Ancient but restored shrine, back of a furniture workshop, Old Bagan

 Teahouse with horse cart driver Win (left), Old Bagan

Haystacks and stupa, Old Bagan

Sharing the shade, Old Bagan

Back lane scene, Old Bagan

Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

Rosettes and peacocks are dominant themes in temple carving
Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

Myo Daung Monastery, Old Bagan

THE HORSE CART tour had been arranged by the hotel. Following breakfast, a young man named Win and his horse were waiting in the shade, before we got out on the highway. As we clip-clopped along the pavement, he asked if he could stop at his home, as the horseshoes had to be changed. Of course it was OK. The house was on the outskirts of Nyaung-U and while he attended to his horse i was given permission to go inside his home. It was a classic Burmese structure on high posts. The home was designed for the maximum possible ventilation. The rattan walls had glass free windows too. I met his wife and baby too, who instantly began crying at the sight of me, but the crisis gradually passed. Soon the horse shoes were changed and we proceeded through Nyaung-U. 

The first stop was the Shwezigon Pagoda, which was over a 1,000 years old. It had undoubtedly changed a great deal since then. The long passage, with sellers and stands, confirmed that this place of worship was also a hotspot for pilgrims and tourists. There was much to see in the buildings around the golden stupa itself.

We followed the main road out of town and through flat and dusty fields. It was a journey back in time given the largest collection Buddhist pagodas, stupas and temples anywhere. We arrived in Old Bagan were i was happy to soak up the atmosphere of the community, perhaps avoiding too many temples and escaping some of the fierce heat of midday. Serious sightseeing would have to wait later in the day. After viewing the Ayeyarwady, below the town we returned to the busy main street where i had a classic Burmese meal under the trees and next to a busy furniture workshop. Following lunch, the cart tour continued to Myoe Daung. It was another jewel box of a temple, in darkened wood and from the 19th Century. This was also a monastery, or rather the location of two monasteries, situated under huge shade trees. There were only a handful of visitors here. In the middle of the afternoon, we returned to the main street and a visit to a friendly tea house.








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