Sunday 7 April 2013

Motorcycle taxis and Mandalay Hill

Video #1, on the back of a motorcycle taxi, (with the "purple haze" feature
accidentally switched on), in the Monk's Quarter of southwest Mandalay

Video #2, on the back of a motorcycle taxi (with complimentary
 swerving and beeping), driving through downtown Mandalay

Video #3, sunset from Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

This driver of this Chinese built Kenbo motorcycle, 
took me nearly to the top of Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Sutaungpyei Pagoda, Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Monks on the east-facing viewpoint, Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Evening light on the back of a standup sign with mirror tiles, 
Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

Looking down the western slope of Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

 Sunset from Mandalay Hill, Mandalay

THE FIRST FULL DAY in Mandalay involved the use of the ubiquitous motorcycle taxis. After the morning ride to Shwenandaw Kyaung Monastery, the second driver convinced me to hire him for the rest of the day. As lunchtime approached, he took me to an elegant garden restaurant where the tour groups came, and where he could earn a commission too. I was willing to go along with that as it worked out well for both of us. While the driver waited i ordered a tasty but pricey lunch, which was a pleasant change from the dining adventure of the night before. Following this midday meal, in the shade, i climbed awkwardly back onto the back of the bike. After the Mahamuni Pagoda and the Shwe In Bin Monastery, mentioned in the last post, the driver took me back to the Zegyo Hotel for a quick rest. 

In the late afternoon, Mandalay Hill was next. This was a place of extraordinary religious significance, even involving the very active support of a number of Burmese kings. It was also the site of fierce warfare during World War II. For most tourists, the evening view was the main attraction, which was generally enhanced by an extravagant sunset.

Given my 2 XL proportions, the tiny Chinese motorbike did the impossible. It got us up, nearly to the peak, at 240 metres (790 ft) above the city. I actually thought the engine would never make it – i really did – as it whined horribly on the steep ascents. Not far from the top the road ended in congestion. Motor cycles taxis, car taxis, chartered vans and buses crowded into a small parking area. Off came my shoes and socks according to temple regulations, followed by the inevitable climb to the summit, without my precious orthodics, i might add. Ahead of me were flights of mostly tiled stairs, lined by stands and stalls, with the call of the hawkers, before the summit itself. Sutaungpyei (literally means "wish-fulfilling") Pagoda finally appeared above the last steps. With relief i noticed a calm descend over me as my inner (and ugly) tourist diminished and the silent swearing and whining abated, somewhere in the recesses of my mind. This mighty ascent had taken all of 15 minutes!

Walked slowly around the terrace, where i could take in the views, cast in a delicate golden light. Up here on the peak, the temple surfaces glowed ever so softly. Monks, pilgrims and tourists moved about the columns and arches or gazed out contemplatively at the sunset. To the southwest was Mandalay, down on the plain, appearing dimly through the haze. Beyond the city, a bewitching strip of light glinted on the Ayeyarwady River. As the sun dropped behind a low chain of hills, the crowd of mostly tourists came to life. Once twilight was upon us, the mad dash for the buses and taxis began. 


Even though this is from 2008, and from a pro-government regime newspaper, it does give more background then any of the more recent links i could dig up:

A good all round reference: 

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