Monday 29 April 2013

At a fertility shrine, Bangkok

 Approaching Tubtim shrine from the back of the Nai Lert Hotel, 
Chidlom District, Bangkok

 Terra cotta children along the walk into the Tubtim shrine, 
Chidlom District, Bangkok

Spirit house, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Figurine offerings, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

 Feral cat, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

 Phallic offerings, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

 Phallic offerings, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Phallic offerings in a tree, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Phallic offerings near the canal, Tubtim Shrine, 
Chidlom District, Bangkok

Phallic offerings, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok


Video #1, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Video #2, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Video #3, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

Video #4, Tubtim Shrine, Chidlom District, Bangkok

CHAO MAE TUBTIM SHRINE, not far from the Chidlom Skytrain Station, was tucked away behind the Swissotel run Nai Lert Hotel. It was a surprising sight, right on the edge of a busy canal. Beneath a couple of huge Sai (Ficus) trees were hundreds of phallic sculptures. They were big and small, in wood or stone, in groups, or even standing on their own. One might think this scene had something to do with sex, but that was hardly the case. All these penis shaped objects expressed a desire to have a child. In fact, one was greeted by little terra cotta figures of happy children, near the entrance to this fertility shrine. There were also hotel tables with little rows of figurines (as well as more penuses), coloured ribbons festooned around trees and various other objects and even a mysterious looking filing cabinet. Finally, there were several spirit houses or săan.   

Early in the 20th Century, a property developer named Nai Lert, turned these grounds that measured 18 x 21 metres (60x70 feet), into a place for worship. He dedicated this all to Tubtim, a Chinese goddess associated with the protection of sailors. Now, why then the  connection then to fertility? Long ago, some unknown woman became pregnant, after praying to Tubtim. With the birth of her child she made a phallic offering, known in Thai as a bhalad khik, to show her gratitude to the goddess. Soon, similar objects turned up, after more fertility prayers were imitated and then answered. Today some people leave offerings for many other things, not just children.

It was time to leave this little pocket of worship. In the surroundings streets were luxury hotels and extravagant shopping malls. Given all this chic and prestige, a different kind of religion was in evidence here – at the risk of ending this post with a cliché.


An overview:
Chao Mae Tuptim shrine - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Where i found out about this shrine via "Top 10 most unusual sights in Bangkok:
Bangkok Phallic Shrine - Shrine of Goddess Tubtim in Bangkok

Interesting blog write up on Spirit Houses, etc:
A Year in Bangkok – Spirits, Ghosts and Shrines. | Ben Salmons's Blog


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